The Copper Canyon area of Mexico's Sierra Madre Occidental is a large plateau of volcanic tuff deeply cut by rivers. Five major rivers, and numerous perennial tributaries spiral the high backbone of the continent, with all but one river system dumping its water and sediment into the Sea of Cortez. This area at the junction of the states of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa encompasses over 25,000 square miles/ 62,500 hectares. The volcanic tuff, primarily composed of andesite and rhyolite, is a homogenous layer up to 8000 feet/2400m thick. Relatively young by geologic standards ( 30 million years) it offers suitable conditions for canyon walls steeper and deeper than those at the Grand Canyon of Arizona. By comparison, the Grand Canyon of Arizona by virtue of a 2000 foot upwelling exposes up to 5000 feet of distinct sedimentary layers formed by erosion and deposition of sand, mud, and decomposing sea creatures overlaying bedrock of over a billion years. In the Copper Canyon, deep fissures filled with rich intrusions of valuable minerals like silver have been known and exploited for centuries. For the hiker, however, it is the numerous hot springs that bring unexpected delight at the end of a grueling day.
These races aren't without their sponsors. The main promotional product is Tesguino, a crude, low alcohol corn beer. It takes about 5 days to ferment a batch, so its slightly sour flavor is similar to the clear whey floating on top of a tub of plain yogurt. Usually there is someone who puts on the race after an activity, such as trail repair, judicial meetings, or religious festivities. This person has the resources and responsibility for making the beer, and timing its peak flavor to coincide with the end of work; and the beginning of fun. The Tarahumara are actually a very shy, solitary people, and these gathering punctuated by "ponche" are the lubricant of social interaction. This social beer culture has been exhaustively researched. See the reading list, or look for Tarahumara of the Sierra Madre: Beer, Ecology, and the Social Organization, John G. Kennedy © 1978; ISBN 0882956159
The Tarahumarans were not the original inhabitants of the canyons, however. Numerous ruins from the Mogollon culture dot the landscape if you know where to look. The Fremont-Anasazi-Mogollon could have been a wave of migration about 1200 years ago. Paquime is the most famous of the plains settlements, located near the present-day city of Nuevas Casas Grandes. It is comparable to the Chaco Canyon system. Abandoned cliff dwellings are everywhere with the most extensive being Cuarenta Casas near the logging town of Madera. The cliff dwelling ruins contrast with Mesa Verde and Tsegi in the Four Corners region of the southwest US.
Cuauhtemoc, an hour west of Chihuahua, and about 3 hours east of Creel, is the unofficial capital of the Mennonite community. A statue at the western edge of town features a farmer wearing his signature bib overalls standing beside a thigh-high milk can, holding aloft a sheath of grain. Following the Mexican Revolution that ended in 1920, President Alvaro Obregon invited the Mennonites from Canada. The revolution was primarily a result of consolidation of vast tracts of land into the hands of a few wealthy families to the exclusion and dispossession of the peasants. Emiliano Zapata was the leader from the central state of Morelos, and Pancho Villa was the leader in Chihuahua. 2010 is the 100th anniversary. Viva la Revolucion! One of the ousted landholders was William Randolph Hearst. He had only constructed the footing of has hacienda near present day Babicora, when he had to flee to San Clemente, CA.
The revolution emptied, and opened up lots of land. The Mexican government promised the Mennonites autonomy, freedom from military service and taxes. The Canadian government had previously reneged on its promise not to require military service of the followers of Menno Simons (1496-1561) of Friesland, now in the Netherlands. These Anababtists generally attain only a sixth grade education in an effort to limit the influence of the outside world and foster spiritual communities that live close to the soil. They maintain their genetic integrity by marrying within the community. Many people do a double-take when they see blonde blue eyes kids on the streets of Cuauhtemoc. They still speak low German, but the men especially speak Spanish for commerce. The Mennonites embrace technology but eschew adornments. Their products are known for their quality and sought throughout Mexico. Especially famous is Mennonite cheese. They also make tasty peanut butter and chocolate. Mennonite families live in Campos and produce goods similar to a guild society. Campos lining the highway have specialties such as double-pane windows, solar hot water heaters, woodstoves, or swingsets. While in the area, don't miss a chance to try Jugo Mennonita, an indescribable cocktail of cabbage, garlic, and prickly pear cactus...it's more like a tonic, than a juice. I hope to get enough gumption to try it one of these days!
Silver was first mined in Mexico at Taxco in 1522. Mining in Batopilas began in 1632 (See Mineralogical Record, V17, #1, pp 61-80; Jan-Feb 1986) after advance guards discovered gleaming silver in the banks of the river. At one point the population of this sleepy town was over 5000. It was the second city in Mexcio to have electricity thanks to the efforts of disgraced Washington, D.C. governor Alexander Sheppard. Meanwhile, the Jesuits slowly worked their way up the west coast of Mexico. They settled on the rivers among the natives, and began by learning their languages and teaching them agricultural improvements. They encouraged reducciones, a process whereby the natives were concentrated in a location to donate labor to build a church. Mine owners recognized the availability of a defenseless and pliable population and sought to enslave the Indians. Families were treated harshly and separated from one another. The Jesuits were recalled to Spain in 1767. The Spanish Crown feared they were getting too rich and powerful. Not all the Indians were Christians when they left. As they Indians left the plains for the refuge of the canyons, the religion they carried morphed into an amalgamation of paganism, animism, and Christianity. Today their Easter celebrations are a big draw for foreigners and Mexicans alike.
The Tarahumara suffer high infant mortality. They aren't well integrated into the cash economy, and hospitals are far away. In the rancherias that have a church, there is usually a visiting doctor and a preacher. The doctor dispenses medication for ailments, but there is usually only enough for a few days. Even a regimen of antibiotics can't be completed. Medical care is free, but you get what you pay for. Prenatal care, postnatal care, general hygiene, dental education, nutritional information are all lacking. Coca Cola makes fast inroads but toothbrushes and toothpaste don't. Cookies are fortified with vitamins and minerals, but processed foods such as lighly salted Maruchan are taking a toll on their general health. The preacher visits about as often as the doctor. He offers baptisms, and records births, deaths, and marriages. Many Indians still rely on the medicine man or curandero, but tuberculosis and other respiratory ailments can't be cured by faith. The women still cook with fires, and they usually have a baby in the rebozo on their back. The particulate matter they breathe is bad for the healthy, but detrimental for the very young and very old. The good thing about their poorly insulated houses is that they are well ventilated. They use their houses mainly to store belongings that they want to keep away from their goats.